http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php Urban Aquaponics - Aquaponics Systems Community For Aquaponics Enthusiasts en Sat, 19 May 2012 20:22:30 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/images/misc/rss.jpg http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=152 Thu, 17 May 2012 23:35:44 GMT The dreaded blue screen problem affects everybody sometime or another. Why these things happen is usually a mystery. Usually when the errors occur, a... The dreaded blue screen problem affects everybody sometime or another. Why these things happen is usually a mystery. Usually when the errors occur, a task is being performed and the suddenly the program crashes. A large amount of words and numbers flash throughout the screen and then a system reboots. Thus there's no concept of the error was caused by what.To fix this problem go into the startup menu when windows is booting, and then select the substitute for avoid the computer from automatically restarting on errors. When the computer crashes again, the blue screen may indicate a lot of information that's generally unintelligible to the lay person. A number code will appear that's about seven figures long. Copy this down.Next, do a search of the Microsoft knowledge base using the code you wrote down. The knowledge base is the number 1 application in working out what the problem is. Once you have the information, you can go into your computer system and correct the error. Occasionally it is an application problem, and other times it's an equipment problem. The two most typical reasons for a blue screen is due to failing memory and bad graphics drivers.In the case of failing memory, there could be a few reasons for that as well. The computer could be dirty, the memory could be previous, or the computer may be overheating. Many of these will give memory errors and cause blue screens.Starting with the simplest first, open the computer and see how much dirt and dust has accumulated. If the process is clean, then go to the next option. Check to see if the computer is overheating.When the computer is first starting, press the del key or http://registrycleaners10.com/speedy-pc-pro/ key, these are the most typical keys to get in to bios. Different manufacturers have different keys though. Once in bios, check the section underneath the advanced bill and look at the hardware monitor. This will supply the current operating temperature of the CPU and the rate of the supporters for the CPU and the frame. A good reading will be at or below 50 degrees centigrade. If the computer does not present these records, then you can find applications that can be saved that will show the temperature as well.If the temperature is high, then improving the airflow to dissipate the heat will speed up the computer. This is done by installing more cooling fans, or by opening the case a little bit.The other cause of blue screens is the graphics driver. Clearing out the old driver and reinstalling a new one will often take care of the problem. The drivers get damaged after a while especially when programs are installed and refreshing the people could make the system balanced once more. While these would be the most common factors behind the blue screen, they are by no means the only causes. ]]> ZackaryyHoffman http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=152 http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=151 Sat, 12 May 2012 22:32:40 GMT The horrible blue screen error affects everyone at some time or another. Why these things happen is generally a mystery. Usually when the errors... The horrible blue screen error affects everyone at some time or another. Why these things happen is generally a mystery. Usually when the errors occur, a job is being executed and the suddenly the system crashes. A large amount of words and numbers flash across the screen and then the system reboots. Thus there is no idea of what caused the problem.To resolve this issue go into the startup menu when windows is booting, and then choose the choice to prevent the computer from automatically restarting on problems. When the pc crashes again, the blue screen can show a lot of information that is generally unintelligible to the lay person. A number code can look that's about nine numbers long. Copy this down.Next, do a search of the Microsoft knowledge base using the code you wrote down. The information base is the number 1 instrument in finding out what the problem is. After you have the information, you can enter your computer system and fix the mistake. Occasionally it's an application problem, and other times it's a hardware problem. The two most common reasons for a blue screen is due to failing memory and poor graphics drivers.In the case of failing memory, there could be a few reasons for that as well. The computer might be dirty, the ram might be previous, or the computer may be overheating. Many of these can give memory errors and cause blue screens.Starting with the simplest first, open the computer and observe much dirt and dust has accumulated. If the system is clean, then go to the next solution. Check to see if the computer is overheating.When the computer is first beginning, press the del key or f2 key, they are the most typical keys to get into bios. Different companies have different recommendations however. Once in bios, check the section under the advanced bill and go through the hardware monitor. This may give the present running temperature of the CPU and the speed of the fans for the CPU and the chassis. A good reading will be at or below 50 degrees centigrade. If the computer does not show these details, then there are applications that can be saved that will show the temperature as well.If the temperature is high, then improving the ventilation to dissipate the heat will speed up the computer. This is done by adding more cooling followers, or by opening the case a little bit.The other reason for blue screens is the graphics driver. Clearing out the old driver and reinstalling a new one will most likely look after the problem. The individuals get corrupted after a while especially when applications are mounted and refreshing the drivers will make the system healthy once more. While these are the most typical causes of the blue screen, they are [url=http://registrycleaners10.com/] the only causes. ]]> ZackaryyHoffman http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=151 http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=150 Fri, 11 May 2012 06:54:57 GMT advanced registry optimizer (http://pcregistrycleaners.org/advanced-registry-optimizer/)If you have questions about what is the best registry cleaner... advanced registry optimizerIf you have questions about what is the best registry cleaner then you don't need to to go far to get some answers. Let's start off with the functions of the windows operating system. Some of us realize that a n operating system is why is the programs and applications run and operate while using the database of your computer. It needs configuration to function properly.This is called the registry system. If the registry system is rich in data then the system can or will decelerate. In the event this happens, your work time will be doubled since the computer will slow down. In order to allow it to be faster once again you will need to get rid of the unused files and data that is stored in the registry. With this particular software you'll be able to do that.You do not have to invest in a slow system. All you need to perform is to try this cleaner as well as your system will run without problems. When you run this cleaner, it organizes and defrags your files and systematically places them in the correct file allotment. As a result of this, your system files will run smoothly without the difficulties.There is actually a wide selection of cleaners out in the internet today and all of them has different functions and also capabilities. An individual must choose among the finest and select the one that suits their needs. In addition to this you will end up choosing from those which can be free and with charge. If it is free it does not mean that it rule isn't followed.There are many free cleaners that works excellently but if you would like have the best of the best then you can be satisfied those paid cleaners which have been being sold at a practical price. A small price to pay for a cleaner that can really complete the same task. It is very effective and very easy to use. You do not ought to be a computer genius to operate the cleaner.Cleaning your system is not a difficult task anymore. You can download this particular Registry Cleaner and all you have to do is navigate to the official site and you are a-ok. It does not require any technical know-how about how to clean upward your registry. Just install the cleaner and yes it prompts you on where to start next. The program will scan your personal machine and then clean the particular registry. ]]> ZackaryyHoffman http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=150 http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=149 Fri, 30 Mar 2012 23:08:44 GMT My starting pile of lumber
One of several cut templates that I made for the many quickly reproduceable cuts I had to make

my fearless helper pre-drilling posts for deck screws. Well, I'm not sure I can say "fearless" she supportive and excited, but a little nervous I think
the base of my tank and then the tank all framed

The tank is 121.5" x 36" x 24" (LxWxH) and has a volume of 104976 in3
volume which equates to a full capacity of 456 but I plan to leave ~6" space at the top which will bring my capacity to ~350 gallons. ]]> utahGrower http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=149 http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=148 Fri, 30 Mar 2012 00:01:21 GMT After hammering out the dimensions and then the materials list. Deciding on what plants I'd like to grow and trying to source some major costs items I got lucky. I ran across a suite billboard cast off from a local company that would serve as the basis for my entire system for just $75. The only thing better than the cost was the subject matter I was so disappointed. NOT.

I also was able to connect to a local salvage company to get some 4' x 2' x 3" fluorescent lights for $5.00 per fixture. I got 12 of them. While these are the old T12 40 watt bulbs they are all in working order and the 8 watt difference over the new energy efficient t8's. Using the 10 cents per kilowatt I pay and the electricity cost calculator the difference is 0.01 per hour. Since a comparable t8 light would cost me about 120.00 it would take approximately 70 months for the cost savings to add up. In addition the salvaged t12 all came with 4 working bulbs. The added costs of new t8 bulbs would push that out significantly higher.

Having these two large costs out of the way I was hoping to have the system setup for under $600.
Spring Lake Trout Farm is the closest to my home and offers sterile Rainbow trout fingerlings for $0.25 per inch and delivery for $1.50 per mile. I was going to start with 50 fish which would put my stocking densities 1 fish per 7 gallons which is conservative but gives me plenty of error and grow room. Fish costs: $137 for 4" fingerlings

I wanted to grow my fish in totally cleaned and purified water, so I sourced a local RO bottling company and it was going to be about 30 cents a gallon to fill up my 55 gallon drums to then fill the tank, or fill up 5 gallons at a time for a cost of 25 cents a gallon from the local jug dispenser. The extra time and hassle seemed worth 5 cents. This would come to about $115.00

Next I jumped down to my local Home Depot and purchased
9: 4x4 posts
56: 2x4's
3: 2x8's
8 sheets of 15/32 OSB. I came to this as my design was going to have 12" spans at most, then I calculated the weight of water per square foot, added in the grow media and fish calculations and came to needing to support 170 pounds per square foot which at 12" spans 15/32 will support up to 390 (available from home depot's pro desk) so that seemed safe
1 large box of 2.5" treated deck screws
1 small box of 1.5" treated deck screws

for a cost of about $250

I also got lucky enough to pick up a temp and humidity sensor for half price on woot.com as well as a LeakFrog Leak Alarm at half price to help protect my basement in the event of a leak.

Left to buy/source:
Air Pump, Water Pump, Tank Heater, Timers, Oscillating fan ]]> utahGrower http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=148 http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=147 Thu, 29 Mar 2012 22:54:52 GMT Basing my design of my room size and the given constants previously discussed I came up with this design.... Basing my design of my room size and the given constants previously discussed I came up with this design.
https://www.facebook.com/video/video...680321&__adt=5

This allows me to grow tall vine plants, short shrub plants, have a small area for DWC via floating raft and a verticle channel system. This system will start with 12 4 tube 40watt fluorescent lights that I picked up from a salvage yard. My tank is 350 gallons ]]> utahGrower http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=147 http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=146 Thu, 29 Mar 2012 22:44:55 GMT I decided to bring my system indoors. I did this primarily due to lack of space in my yard, room in my home and the ability to control more aspects... I decided to bring my system indoors. I did this primarily due to lack of space in my yard, room in my home and the ability to control more aspects of my system such as temperature, air and water quality as well as dramatically increase my growing season.



This is the layout of the room in my basement that I had to use. It offered 125 square feet of useable floor space and just over 8 feet of vertical height.
There were a few constants that I had to take into consideration. To minimize ph, temperature swings and provide any kind of significant impact in my family food budget I knew I needed >300 gallon tank. With the standard grow bed size depth being 6-12 inches depending on what your trying to grow, a 3" x 2' x 4' light foot print and basic plant height requirements I knew designing the system to maximize use of the space and provide the most efficient grow area was going to be a bit of a challenge. But I broke out sketch up 8 and tried a variety of designs until I came up with one that made sense to me.

I also took a look at several guys in Wisconsin doing indoor grows.
http://www.growingpower.org
http://naturalgreenfarms.com
and some commercial systems http://www.growfish.com/s-2005.html

I knew my system would be based on a CHOP system with a singular tank and use a bell siphon for the grow beds. But I liked the supplementary tank idea and "flushing' mechanism from Barrelponics

I knew I needed to have at least 2 x as much grow bed as I had tank and that I would need to water each grow bed singularly to avoid over stressing the fish with high water fluctuations and I liked the idea of this indexing valve but didn't really like the idea of more electricity around the system or the electronics to control it. ]]> utahGrower http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=146 http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=145 Thu, 29 Mar 2012 22:03:14 GMT For me some of the greatest challenges I faced when putting my system design together were : * Space * budget * ROI * ROI with Fresh, herbicide... For me some of the greatest challenges I faced when putting my system design together were :

• Space
• budget
• ROI
• ROI with Fresh, herbicide and pesticide free, ripe food
• deciphering the massive amount of information that applied to my situation
• deciphering the government regulations that applied to me, my system and situation

For some more details.

Space: I like many Utahans have a large home on a small lot. To make matters worse my home faces east making the small yard I do have shrouded in shade for 1/3 of the day. On top of that, to me you can't truly call something organic if all kinds of toxins rain down from the sky onto my food and if my water is contaminated by a wide array of chemicals.

Budget: I'm not independently wealthy. I'm thankfully not struggling as many are, but the costs and ROI need to make sense

ROI: How do you truly measure the value of ripe, unadulterated, fresh food. I mean I can look at what I spend on vegetables and small fruit every month (~120.00) but I am still trusting what someone who is financially tied to the purchase has to say about the product they're trying to get me to by. As a member of the Marketing world, I have little trust based on what I have seen so many of my colleagues do to make a buck.


Information: There is SOO much information out there. So many types of systems, so many applications. So many ways of doing things that boil down to how much you want to spend and what you have access to. Before marketing I went to U of U for Electrical Engineering and so I tried to boil a system down to some of the basics that would apply to any system and then build up from there. I listed the ones I felt were most important here: https://www.facebook.com/groups/2063...6817796086661/


Regulations: In Utah Aquaponics is governed by UDAF (Utah Dept of Agriculture and Food) and the UDWR (Utah Dept of Wildlife Resources) IF you plan to Sell fish, breed fish, transport fish, have fished shipped in or apply for a fish not readily offered by Utah fisheries. If you plan to raise fish for your own use, use a non game fish (such as gold fish, koi, something from the pet store) or use a sterilized game fish, will not be transporting game fish (will instead pay the fishery to) you do not need a license or to register. HOWEVER before you get started I would simply suggest going to the UDWR website and calling the appropriate number (it's by county) or stopping by and having a chat. I spent days reading the info on the various websites and it was soo confusing. A 15 minute phone call cleared it right up and pointed me to EXACTLY what applied to me and what I needed to do.

For me personally I decided to go with Locally supplied sterilized rainbow trout and pay the fishery to transport them. This was the cheapest route I could find, requires no license or registration and allows me to get my system setup before I decide to go a much more expensive route of registration, shipping in state and such. If your in utah can you find a list of species and sources in Utah here... ]]> utahGrower http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=145 http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=144 Thu, 29 Mar 2012 21:40:03 GMT After a lot of reading, reading, perusing, planning and budgeting I am finally going for it ! I am setting up my Aquaponics system. First off I... After a lot of reading, reading, perusing, planning and budgeting I am finally going for it ! I am setting up my Aquaponics system.

First off I want to thank Neil for having this resource for Aquaponics and for being so willing to share his knowledge, his resources, trials, errors and triumphs. I would have probably been a lot more hesitant had I not had the opportunity to see a system in action.

For some of the reasons why I decided to do Aquaponics I would point you to a Facebook group that I setup.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/206348186133622/

I've decided to more forward on this blog with the details of my setup and success, if that's okay with the owner vs Facebook.
I've done that so there is a more centric collection of information as well as to provide more information to Utah based Aquaponics specifically and to take part in the slowly growing community that is Urban Aquaponics. ]]> utahGrower http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=144 http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=141 Mon, 12 Dec 2011 01:06:53 GMT Utahans ae finding aquaponics in droves. This month I toured 4 different groups through our system. More and more people are learning about the... Utahans ae finding aquaponics in droves. This month I toured 4 different groups through our system. More and more people are learning about the benifits of aquaponics. I had several family groups and 2 commercial ventures come through. It's good to see so many people considering starting a system. ]]> nwestwood http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=141 http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=139 Tue, 13 Sep 2011 22:31:52 GMT Greetings everyone! I am excited to meet you all and discuss aquaponics and related topics. I look forward to learning what you have been doing... Greetings everyone!

I am excited to meet you all and discuss aquaponics and related topics. I look forward to learning what you have been doing and to share my experiences as well. I have just begun to build my greenhouse and system. I have been a gardener of traditional and hydroponic methods, and koi enthusiast for decades, so it seemed a natural transition to bring the two together. Although I will switch to a more palatable fish species, I feel the aquaculture portion shouldnt be too difficult. Heating and plant nutrition are going to be a challenge as well as pest control, and the desire to use sustainable feeding methods. Any information you have to share will be greatly appreciated. ]]> ricks http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=139 http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=138 Sat, 19 Mar 2011 20:29:03 GMT I'm reposting this here for completeness. Also, I netted up some of the Bass, the 1 inch fingerling's are now 3-4 inches and growing nicely! I'm very happy with them. The Bluegill are all over the map size wise. I'm thinking of adding a few rainbow trout now that the weather has cooled off and the tank temps have come down. Also, the days are getting shorter, I'm looking into lights to keep the crops growing through the winter.

Here is my post from another thread regarding plan deficiencies.

In my system, I have to regularly add calcium, iron, Potassium and Magnesium.

Here are my log notes on what symptoms go with which deficiencies: ( have experienced and corrected all of these)

1) New leaves brown - Potassium
2) Young Leaves yellow (between the veins) with green veins - Generally Iron or Magnesium.
3) Older Leaves yellowing between - Generally Magnesium or Iron.
4) Growing tips, or new growth stunted and shrunken, or old leaves dry up - Nitrogen
5) fruit doesn't set, or small fruits shrivel and drop - Calcium or Iron
6) Tomatoes - blossom end rot - Calcium
7) Cucumbers - leaves scorched, browning around the edges - Potassium

Fruiting plants have the greatest deficiency tendencies. Green leafy plants seem to survive on lower levels.

Easy source of:
1) Magnesium - Epsom Salts/Magnesium Sulfate (grocery store) -
2) Potassium - Potash (garden store)
3) Chelated Iron - (garden store)
4) Calcium Nitrate - (mine came from greenhouse supplier 19% calc, 15% nitrate)

Calcium and Potassium can bind each other, so add these on different weeks.

I have found that my Nitrate level stays below 5 ppm and that while my fish are smaller, they don't produce enough nitrate, so In my aprox. 1000 liter fish tank - 1000 liter grow beds/raft system, I add 1 tablespoon of calcium nitrate every other or every third day. If I don't, all the small cucumbers on my 2 massive plants, shrivel and die.

I add 1 tablespoon of chelated Iron every other week. 1 tablespoon of Potassium and Magnesium every other week, unless I see plant problems.

My system is 6 months old and fruit shriveling of the cucs is the only problem I really see (calcium and iron). Everything else is doing well. We pick 18-24 large Roma tomatoes a week, about 1 head of lettuce daily, and 3-4 massive cucumbers weekly. Which is just right for our family.

Also, keeping your PH down (6.4-6.8) makes a big difference on what the plants can take up.

Of the additives, calcium, iron, magnesium are not generally toxic to fish in higher levels. Potassium can be, so it's the one I'm more careful with. My next purchase is a complete test kit so I can monitor the actual levels of all these nutrients. Right now I can monitor Nitrate and PH of course, and total dissolved solids. but none of the others.

Someday I'll get my input water tested and see what comes in with it. All I know right now is that it's PH 8.0+, my problem is keeping PH down, I use phosphoric acid. As the system has matured, it takes less to keep it down. Most systems have the opposite problem, that it always drops to low. ]]> nwestwood http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=138 http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=137 Sat, 19 Mar 2011 20:25:25 GMT Originally Posted 20-August-2009

What a difference 2 weeks makes. The fingerling's appear to have doubled in size and are frantic feeders. No loses since treatment and very active fish. The kids love to watch me feed morning and night as they just boil the surface when I feed. Compared to the Bluegill, these guys grow like weeds.

I had some problems with the cucumbers losing the baby fruit and growing tips slowing down. I was not adding enough calcium and potassium. Since my PH is always high and I add phosphoric acid to bring it down, the calcium need is greater than if PH were going low and I was using calcium hydroxide to bring it up. I'm using the Calcium Nitrate at a rate of about 3 tablespoons per week (its 19% calcium 15% nitrate). The system is converting it well, nitrates are staying low, there is sufficient plant load to take care of it and the fish waste. Cucs are growing and setting well again and tomatoes set 6-8 fruit per node.

I also add chelated iron and magnesium. The Iron is the one I struggle with, the plants need it, but it turns the water red so that you can't see the fish well in the tank. Half the fun of having a system is watching the fish. I always know it's time to add iron when I can see the fish well again. Sigh . . . I'll keep looking for an alternative, but for now, red water and happy plants.

I've been experimenting with COS (Romaine) Lettuce varieties. During the heat of the summer (even though the water temps were below 72F (22C), all varieties were leggy and bolted. It has cooled down a little (68F-20C max) and I revamped my seed starter trays to have 18 hours of light within 6 inches of the tray. I have several varieties of Cos types that I'm testing now and they appear to be growing more as expected with tight compact bodies, some are doing better than others (Paris Island still bolt, Jerico is doing the best, others are in between), I'll do a report in a couple of months on the varieties and which work well in my system. My main stay are Butterhead varieties Laurel P and Rex. Also the common garden variety Prize Head (a multi-colored leaf) does very well. I also do a red leaf Amadine, but it is slower to grow and less full heads, but adds some color. I'm looking for other red leaf. I did not have good luck with the head types. I may try again now that it's cooler.

I grow a mix (red leaf, green leaf, butter head, romaine) in the DWC tank to make a nice mixed green salad, starting 10-12 heads each week, they are inside in the starter tray and lights for 2 weeks, then I move them out to the raft for the last 6 weeks. I water the seeds with tank water. Also, I start 4-8 celery plants each month. they take 3-4 months to grow out and we only use one now an then. I rinse the roots off in the DWC about every other week, probably more often than needed, but no problems with older plants stopping growth or slowing down. It seems like watching the lettuce that the first 6-7 weeks they barely grow, then the last week they just bolt to full size.

Summer is over, the days are getting shorter. Soon I'll take the shade cloth off the green house to get more light and in a couple of months I need to get some grow lights installed to extend the day and keep things growing quicker in the winter.

The tomato and cucumber plants are 8-10' long now. I have trained them all over the greenhouse, it's getting out of hand. I think I need to start some new plants and start rotating out some of the older vines. Now that it is cooling off, I'm going to try cabbage in the grow beds again.

All in all, I'm very happy with they system. The outside garden is in full production as well. My parents that live nearby prefer the aquaponic tomatoes to the garden tomatoes. The garden tomatoes have such strong acid flavors (which I like) that it hurts my dads mouth and causes sores (he has chronic fatigue and other age related health issues) and the aquaponic tomatoes have great flavor, but are not as acidic. The European cucumbers (burpless) grow massive 18-24" long 2"+ diameter excellent fruits. They tend to want to pull the vine off the twine they are wrapped around. It's great to walk in and see these massive cucs hanging and big hands of roma and full size tomatoes growing.

Pests have been manageable. every couple of months I order more lady bugs and aphid predators. A spot may flair up for a week or two, then the predators knock them back.

We harvested a big load of figs off the 1 tree in the greenhouse and my wife made a wonderful jam that tastes like raspberry jam. ]]> nwestwood http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=137 http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=136 Sat, 19 Mar 2011 20:22:39 GMT Originally Posted 5-August-2009 Here is more detail on how the water heater in my system works. One issue with any system in a aquaculture system... Originally Posted 5-August-2009

Here is more detail on how the water heater in my system works. One issue with any system in a aquaculture system is the possibility of poisoning from the components of the system. For example, Copper pipes will give off enough toxic elements that over time it will kill fish. All components must be inert to prevent fish loss.

The Water heater has coated steel inlet and outlets. The drop tube is plastic, the drain and overpressure valve appeared to be Galvanized and Copper (bad). I replaced the drain with a stainless steel nipple and stainless steel shutoff valve (ball valve). The pressure valve I left as I have not found a replacement. I hope it’s such a small part that it will be ok. The Ball valve was recommended to me by a plumber who said a ball valve allows large particles to be flushed out, where as the standard faucet tap fitting is very narrow and crude builds up in the tank that will not flush out (it should be flushed at least quarterly). Also the anode in old water heaters was ZINC which guarantees fish kills, but the new water heaters have a Magnesium anode, which is used by plants and should never reach toxic levels. So I left it in. Also the tanks are steel, but are glass lined, so safe. All connections, adapters, flex tubing is either PVC or a plastic or rubber. Essentially a galvanized-copper free system (except the overpressure valve, and I’m betting the nipple is coated.

The greenhouse already had the propane plumbed for the space heater, I just hooked into that. The exhaust vent goes up and out the end wall that backs the water heater, again not difficult, just time consuming. I put the whole thing in a drain pain under some solid support, just to keep the heater off the floor.

Below is a high resolution image with notes on the various components. The key is to partially close the bypass line so that water is forced through the water heater when the sprinkler valve is opened. Because the intake and output of the water heater are smaller, if the bypass is wide open, then even if the sprinkler valve opens, no water will be forced through, by closing down the bypass, then enough water goes through the water heater to heat the tank.

I tried just setting the temperature on the water heater, but it is way to imprecise and would cook the system one day and freeze it the next. Using the controller from AquaticEco I can control the temps within 1 degree.

As mentioned below, I put the water heater on the LOWEST setting, that way energy is not wasted (as much) when during the day it is not needed.

The controller was model TC11
http://www.aquaticeco.com/subcategor...s/controller/0
The sprinkler valve was just a standard sprinker valve from home depot, any will do. The transformer plugs into the controller and is activated when the temperature goes below the set point (or above if you program it for cooling). The controller powers the transformer the transformer outputs to the valve, which opens and allows water to flow through the water heater. I just bought a standard replacement transformer for $10. The controller and water heater were the expensive parts.

(Click on the picture to get a large view with labels)
]]> nwestwood http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=136 http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=135 Sat, 19 Mar 2011 20:08:19 GMT Originally Posted 21-July-2009 The replacement shipment arrived. This time in good health. There were 134 fingerlings in the box and only 1 was... Originally Posted 21-July-2009

The replacement shipment arrived. This time in good health. There were 134 fingerlings in the box and only 1 was belly up. The rest were actively swimming and looked good. The water tested very close to mine, including temperature. I slowly exchange water for about 45 min. Then we netted them out, counting them as we put them in the tank. These guys are vigorous swimmers and eaters. They are fun to watch.

The next morning 12 were belly up, then 7 the next. I'm a little dense and but finally retested the water, Ammonia was 1.0, Nitrites .5 and Nitrates 30ppm. Who knows where it was the day before. I did a heavy watering of the other greenhouse plants, using up 10-15% of the water, replacing it with fresh water. The next morning the levels were back to normal, except nitrates, which are usually around 10ppm is up to 40ppm. So it probably would have cycled on it's own. If I had been thinking, I would have done partial water changes at least daily starting the morning after restocking for several days and tested twice daily.

I would not have thought that such tiny fish would have caused a 300 gallon system already cycled and populated with 100 bigger bluegill to spike so easily, but I was wrong. I lost another 9 over the next 2 days. I don't know how many days it takes for the affected fish to finally stop dying off, but the first batch stopped after about 5 days.

Now I have 140 fingerlings left + 100 Bluegill in a 300 gallon (1100 litre) Tank. That is to many at full size, but my goal is to eat the Bluegill before the bass get to big, making room for the bass to grow up. You can stock 1-2 Bluegill per gallon of tank (or about 1 per every 2 litres) and you can stock 1/2 bass per gallon (or about 1 bass per 7 litres). So at full grow out, my tank should handle 150 bass. Given an 80% survival rate, my 140 should have 110 left at harvest, that leaves a little room left over for a few bluegill.

The bluegill are easier to raise, but don't get very big. Full size is 6-8 inches (150-200mm) and 3/4lb (1/3kg). After that they grow very slowly and are not worth keeping. Bass will continue to grow after they reach market size of 1.5lbs (.7 kg). Bass are more finicky, they need higher dissolved oxygen and better water quality. The down side is that Hybrid Striped Bass are only available as fingerlings once a year in early summer. I may have to keep multiple tanks and split them as the older ones are harvested. Bluegill have another challenge, they grow at widely different rates, so not a very efficient fish to raise, but fun to catch and good eating. Unfortunately these are my choices in Utah.

The tank temperatures have been climbing as the daytime outside temperatures are reaching 100 degrees (36-38C). The tank which normally stays below 72 degrees (22C) was up to 74 degrees (24C). That's to warm for good lettuce growth, although everything else likes it, including the fish. I've started taking the insulated cover off the tank at night so that it can radiate more heat into the greenhouse cooling it down. If that doesn't work, I'll start freezing gallon jugs of water to put in the tank in the day.



Originally Posted 5-August-2009

This is a summary of my thread over in the fish section that I wanted to post here for those following my system.

The second batch of fingerlings started out well, but soon I was losing 7-12 per day! They appear to have had Flexibacter Columnaris (aka cotton-mouth, saddle back). Probably as a result of the stress of the move, a spike in ammonia as the system adjusted and contact with the prior fish which had already contracted the same as they were much more stressed.

Knowing what I know now, I would have treated quicker and with my final solutions. As it was, I netted most of the fingerlings (but not all, some where to hard to catch) into a 50 gallon tote, where I added an airstone and treated the water with 3 ppt salt and a triple sulfa from the pet store for 5 days. I also treated the main system by adding salt to 1 to 1.5 ppt (by checking with my total dissolved solids meter.) After I put the bulk of the fingerlings back in the main tank. I continued to loose fish at 1 to 2 per day AND I lost 2 bluegill.

I called a fish food supplier in our area and they only sale medicated feed in 50lb bags, BUT he suggested I call one of the hatcheries as he said they often mix small quantities. I called the hatchery where I purchased the fingerlings, they never treat with antibiotics, they put sick fish in 20 ppt salt water for 24 hours and repeat if needed. (It would kill the plants in aquaponics). They also said they know of hatcheries that mix their own medicated feed, they add vegetable oil to the pellets, then add the Terramycin powder and mix well.

Given this, I went to our local farm supply store and bought a packet of Terramycin powder, put a cup full of pellets on wax paper, added a tablespoon of vegetable oil, stirred well until all pellets were coated with oil, then added enough antibiotic powder to coat all the pellets and stirred till it was absorbed by the oil on the pellets. I repeated this process until I had about a 2 week supply.

I started feeding this 6 days ago, I lost 2 more fish in the first couple of days but after that the deaths have stopped. The fish are active and feeding strong. I'll continue to feed for 14 days (10 is the minimum). All signs of Flexibacter Columnaris are gone.

Before I could identify the Columnaris, I thought it might be reaction to elevated levels of Potassium that is supplemented as there are reports of Hybrid Stripped Bass not tolerating Potassium. I contacted several researchers and received copies of several studies. All of them do show low tolerance for elevated levels of Potassium, but no more so than rainbow trout. And in the studies, when the lethal level was reached, 80% of the fish died within 24 hours, not a few a day.

Next time: 1) If I can, I'll setup a quarantine tank, and run salt at 3-5 ppt for a week and see if there is any sickness. If there is not any sickness, add them to the main system and reduce feed until the ammonia cycles with the heavier load. or 2) If I don't have a way to quarantine, add them to the main system, at the first sign of sickness, begin feeding medicated feed and raise the salt to 1-3 ppt. Also upon initially adding them to the system, back off on the feed. Watch ammonia closely, do water changes if it runs up and let the system adjust before feeding normally.

As it is, I now have 98 Bluegill and 64 HSB in my system. Summer is past the peak, maybe next month I'll add a dozen rainbow trout just keep things interesting.

Pictures of the medication tank attached.


Note: I found that HSB are very sensitive to handling until they are over 8-10" long. Anytime I would handle them to check size or growth, several would turn up dead in the 24hrs after the handling. I did not have this problem with the bluegill or the rainbow trout. One technique seemed to help is to not feed the fish for 24hrs before you handle them, this reduced the loss. ]]> nwestwood http://www.urbanaquaponics.com/blog.php?b=135